Sliding x anchor Step 5: Inspection and Testing. Mar 13, 2022 · Here’s another quick way to set up an anchor using a 60cm sling. This method offers extremely good equalization, but fails in reducing extension in the event of an anchor failure. . Testing shows if one leg fails or gets cut (rockfall) the hitch will not slip! Compare this to a “sliding-x” anchor with the same length sling and this is definitely better if direction of load is close to uni-directional. With the anchors set 160 degrees apart the load on each anchor jumps to 290% meaning that in the above example of an 80kg load, each anchor is actually taking a huge 232kgs! Also with widely spread anchors, slung in the fashion shown above, you are loading the carabiner poorly. On the downside, i Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. i am fairly experienced in setting up anchors but never where i so i went into a climbing store near my house to buy my first set of quickdraws. The sliding-X is useful for: - Equalizing two pieces of trad gear as part of a more complicated anchor - Equalizing two pieces of lead protection- Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top roping The sliding-x anchor is a quick and easy anchor to build. Oct 13, 2014 · Anyway, I used to use the sliding x for bolted anchors, but a sling with an overhand is just as easy to set up and more versatile as it has a shelf. This system has the advantage of “auto equalizing” the pull on the pieces as the belayer moves around. As stated above, they generally don’t distribute the load equally , although research performed by Evans demonstrates that under a dynamic load, they distribute the load better than so called “pre Jul 3, 2012 · To equalize alpine anchors, many climbers create a socalled “magic X” (aka “sliding X”) by putting a twist in one strand of a sling connecting two pieces of protection. 5 kN. Dyneema in particular has been shown to weaken from being handled and knotted. Number of Anchor Points (applies to Sliding Anchors) A sliding anchor with three points doesn’t even theoretically distribute load equally as demonstrated in the image below. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). 5 x 3. There are several pre-equalized and self-equalizing techniques to choose from, including the sliding-X, the equalette, and the quad anchor. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalization, the Sl Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to b There are 4 wedge anchor style bolts with chainlink hangers that are equalized with a sliding-x using a Blue Spanset. Sliding-X: The sliding-x method for equalizing anchor points configures the sling in such a way that if one anchor point were to blow, the entire anchor would not completely fail. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a Feb 6, 2024 · Sliding X: Create a loop with the rope around both anchor points, forming an "X. Ancon SPJ Clip-On Tie for SAH Agreed. Adjust the carabiner to equalize the load dynamically. Mathematical data suggest the potential shock loads created by extension (even limited and minimized extensions) can be severe. ). Jun 12, 2021 · 1. It will save your ass! In this video we discuss the Sliding X anchor (also known as the Magic X or Cross Sling anchor). It aids in the pull direction. Jul 27, 2017 · A sliding X is a good solution, to my knowledge, ONLY when you can't be 100% sure of the direction of pull, or if that direction is likely to vary appreciably, making a knot & a "fixed" directional for your anchor less ideal. Connect the lockable carabiner to all Oct 22, 2017 · Soft goods do wear and can suffer cuts. The Sliding X method has been more or less retired as one of the less safe ways of building an anchor. a. Consequently, a sliding-x is commonly built with "limiter knots" which achieve redundancy while minimizing the A cordelette with equal arms and a sliding-X with unequal arms performed similarly to each other, with a much better difference in force between arms, about 1 kN. Tie all four strands of the sling together in an overhand knot or a figure 8 knot on a bight. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection I'm talking about making a regular sliding x, just using two slings instead of one, otherwise identical to the single sling version. Anchors are different and there are some points you should keep in mind. One of the criticisms of the cordalette is after you've tied the master knot, you have potentially poor equalization if you deviate from your set - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. Sliding X. Two realistic possible cases here (things such as gremlins and murderous partners aside). Oct 7, 2016 · I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. The problem with a large open "self-equalizing" system is twofold. This is a self-equalizing anchor with two anchor points. A sliding X is dynamically equalized: if you pull the locking carabiner in different directions, the sling will shift so that both pieces are (close to) equally Feb 2, 2025 · Sliding-X Method This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects two anchor points that adjust depending on the direction of the pull. Make an informed decision when setting your anchor based on the conditions of the bolts (if one looks more suspect than the other, avoid the Sliding X and go with the Figure 8 on a Bight) and the nature of the route below (if it is a wandering route, use the Sliding X so Nov 22, 2019 · Sliding X anchor? Not redundant. If that sling gets cut, adios. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. Feb 1, 2021 · I hear this as a common statement when discussing a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc. This is the classic self-equalizing anchor. a static anchor (Coordilett equalized, then tied off. Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . 5/6. It’s also worth noting that anchor sides with two legs will behave as stationary anchors and will not adjust to changes in direction of pull. However, outside of anchor construction, climbing has many mission critical components that are not redundant. Follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Feb 9, 2020 · See this video on how to build a sliding-x. 2021 . im wondering if the sliding x is ok for anchoring to chains. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. 5 x 6. Nov 13, 2014 · That means that if you make a sliding-x out of it with overhand limiter knots your sling is now only rated at 22kN * . To create a sliding X: Clip a single sling to the carabiners at each anchor point. When I climb multi-pitch with bolted anchors, like in Squamish (on some routes) and elsewhere, I use the tied sliding x exclusively, and pre-tie the anchor. Super fast and still self equalizing/load distributing. Jun 30, 2008 · P. eli poss wrote:i would use and overhand in a bight but I'm worried about taking a fall in which the direction of force may be coming from one side or another rather than straight down below the anchor and the sliding X adjusts to this whereas a pre-equalized knot would not adjust. Feb 25, 2025 · The SPJ Sliding Anchor Clip-on Tie has been designed for easy installation from any position on the sliding anchor stem, and replaces the Ancon SPI Tie. The master point of this anchor has two anchor shackles: one for the mainline and one for the backup. Apr 13, 2020 · The sliding X is simple to set up: take a sling, clip it to two pieces, put a twist in one of the strands, and clip a locking carabiner through both the twist and the other strand. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self Jul 15, 2020 · The Sliding-X anchor has historically been a popular anchor in the climbing community as well as seeing limited use in the rescue community. Anchor Theory. It’s “equalized” to the limitations of the physics. Jun 23, 2021 · In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. We will call the arms directly above the first distribution point ‘primary arms’ and those above the secondary distribution point ‘secondary arms’. On the other hand, self-equalizing anchors like quads or sliding x’s will adapt as the direction of pull changes over time. This pre-equalizes the anchor and makes each anchor point independent of the other. An anchor component fails, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x still catches as designed. " Attach a carabiner to the loop, creating a sliding X. (Credit to Eric Sopheia for this technique. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. Clip the anchor lockers of the pre-tied sliding X - with limiter knots - sling set-up together over your shoulder and it is super quick and easy to setup the top rope anchor. Finally, an equalette with unequal length arms performed similarly to a sliding-X with equal arms, and both of those saw the lowest difference in forces, around 0. Once you secure it to the beam using the integrated adjustment buttons, simply connect your Self-Retracting Lifeline (SRL) or lanyard to the rotating D-ring and you’re ready to work. The spanset legs are connected to the bolts using various steel connectors (carabiners and quicklinks). My tip: Until you memorize it, keep a written note with you when you build an anchor and go through SERENE while you build it. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while incorporating their strengths to produce a more SRENE anchor. Mar 13, 2022 · Here’s another variation of the Sliding X anchor but with knots that limit the extent of the slide to minimise extension shock if one anchor bolt comes off t adjust as load to the anchor changes direction (see Figure 1). 38 inches : Country of Origin ‎USA : Item model number ‎2104710 : Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No : Size ‎3. Moved Permanently. Lately there has been a decline in its popularity primarily due to the recognition of the hazards of anchor extension, discussed below. When using a Sliding X I always include at least 1 bomber piece of gear that is completely independent of the Sliding X. Clip the sling into two bolts. The reason for this is that it does not meet the “No Extension” criteria of a SERENE anchor. This assumes you've got two bomber anchor points that you are equalizing with a single sliding x anchor, just made with two slings. I can set up a fully equalized dynamic anchor that fails at over 22kn (according to Black Diamond's lab) in under a minute. A sliding X rigged from a single 60 cm will have just as much reach as a quad build from a 120 cm sling, and a sliding X 120cm will give you more reach than any of the previously mentioned options. 2. It features a pair of overhand knots. most of the information i read against the sliding x was about trad climbing. A carabiner comes unclipped, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x catches as designed. ) The self equalizing self equalizes but if one pice blows it will shock load the others. the guy who was helping me told me i should use a sliding x anchor instead of two draws because it self equalizes. The Magic X prevents the carabiner from slipping out of the sling should one side of the anc Jul 11, 2020 · It’s redundant. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. Just use your quad wherever you would otherwise be building a sliding x. This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate extensions. In an anchor, everything should have some form of back-up / redundancy. The classic sliding- x system fails to create a fully redundant anchor as cutting the rigging material (such as from rockfall) in one location causes complete anchor failure. I have also been using a variation on the banshee belay more recently when the anchor is two good bolts with chains: Clip a quickdraw between the bolts, clove in to one chain, belay off the other Jul 6, 2023 · Adjustable anchors. Most anchor systems rely on multiple anchor points or legs to create redundancy. ) Redundant with Multiple Anchor Legs. Every multi-point anchor has a primary distribution point in its master point, but 3-piece quads and sliding X anchors also have a second distribution point on the arm that splits again. The powerpoint biners are clipped side by side through both slings. (BTW 25kN is the combined load capability for an equalized system and 25kN doesn't meet the 5:1 rigging safety factor). CM-9255BGS 5. If you are going to use a sliding X type anchor, use two slings so that you are not dependent on a single strand of webbing. com The sliding X is a relatively simple way to connect two anchor points, while creating a system that adjusts to the direction of pull. Most of us climb on one rope There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen poor anchors; Rigged the anchors together in a way that does not share the load between the two and Dec 5, 2019 · Work confidently with the 3M™ Protecta® Sliding Beam Anchor. 12kN. This durable solution provides a high-strength anchorage point that follows you while you work. after researching about the sliding x i am skeptical. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. Without the extra Knots. That being said, I still use a master point anchor 90% of the time on trad. You will seldom use sliding X limiter knots. To make it redundant either use two slings/cords or tie limiter knots (usually overhand knots) in both sides. 3. To make this: First, carabiners should be connected to one sling at each anchor point. Jan 18, 2024 · This is the most common way to set up an sport climbing anchor #2: Sliding X. Dec 14, 2021 · This technique helps combine two anchor points. This anchor design can also be adapted to use premade quad anchor slings. Derek DeBruin . However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal - Causes the remaining pieces to re-equalize - Will not cause you to lose control of the belay Moved Permanently. If one anchor point flops, the other hinders the system from extending significantly. Mar 30, 2011 · jmac wrote:So I am weighing the pros and cons of a self equalizing anchor system (like the sliding X or ACR) vs. 5-14 in : Color ‎Blue : Style ‎Fall Arrest Kits : Material ‎Metal, Aluminum & Stainless Steel : Shape ‎Rectangle : Item Package Quantity ‎1 : Special Features ‎Sliding Beam Anchor : Included Aug 26, 2014 · The entire system is an massive Magic X or Sliding X. Before tying the master point knot, the anchor rope/sling has to be set into the correct “direction of pull” – this is the direction from where the forces are applied to the master point. Jan 1, 2015 · When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. Once your anchor is built, a thorough inspection is crucial before relying on it. Aug 16, 2021 · Building a Sliding X Anchor. 46 = 10. The SPJ tie features a cam-lock design to enable the tie to be rotated into place at any height, even if a tie has already been installed lower down the stem. See full list on climbtallpeaks. thanks guys Tying the knot guarantees that the anchor stays non-extendable in the case of 1 piece failing. You will need a sling for every pair of anchor pieces, so a three point anchor will require two slings. The Sliding X anchor can be tied with a sling or with cordolette. 5mm Quattro X Suture Anchor CM-9201 Tap, 5. Its biggest advantage is the ability to quickly and easily equalize (which means the weight/load is equally distributed across all points of the anchor). Jul 9, 2018 · ‎20. The sliding x sling gets cut. So making a sliding-x with limiters will not meet your 25kN minimum recommended anchor. The document has moved here. PRE-EQUALIZED. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Dec 10, 2023 · Equalization is the process of distributing the load evenly among the anchor points to prevent any one piece from bearing an excessive amount of weight. There are pros and cons to both the Sliding X and the Figure 8 on a Bight. It is self-equalizing, however by itself it is not redundant. Anchors that self-adjust, like quad and sliding X configurations, do not eliminate extension. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. Dec 12, 2016 · The sliding X has a great advantage in regard to its self-equalizing masterpoint that automatically adjusts in a wide range of directions. 5mm Quattro X Suture Anchor Double-Loaded with BroadBand Tape (Sliding) CM-9265BGS 6. - I do not recommend building an anchor composed of a single Sliding X. In short, anchors such as the Quad and the Sliding-X are frequently referred to as “self-equalizing” anchors, which is not entirely accurate. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system like the one in the first photo under the section called "The Myth of Equalization" in that link. A sliding X can be used as part of an anchor, but by itself it is not sufficient. 5mm Quattro X Suture Anchor Double-Loaded with BroadBand Tape (Sliding) Quattro X Suture Anchor Reusable Instruments (Non-Sterile) Part Number Description CM-9200 Awl, 5. There is a tool called SERENE-A, it’s a good mnemonic. Statically equalized cordelette style anchor? Perfectly redundant, if any part of the sling fails, the rest of the anchor still works. Connecting 2 pieces is super easy: shoulder length sling, sliding X. Apr 13, 2017 · The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. But in a pinch, especially on easier terrain, it will do. 5mm Quattro X Suture Anchor 5 days ago · Step-by-Step Guide to Set up a Top Rope Anchors with the Help of a Sliding X. Jul 11, 2016 · Eh, I'd say quads and equallettes have about the same issues with multiple pieces of gear and extension, since they both rely on limiter knots. Dec 1, 2023 · This is especially critical for pre-equalized anchors. S. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). To build a Sliding X, follow the process: Take a7mm sling and form a loop out of it by joining both ends with the help of a double fisher knot. If your goal is to build an anchor that meets the standards of the anchor building acronyms SRENE or ERNEST, then an open Sliding X is the wrong choice. suxe njhl wbkjhe kqwf ebimfa iity bwdlc vidntf yap uuf uffi rpbwn cbcgnve cqzj erpx